The Great Portland Grocery Store Doughnut Showdown

In partnership with Branch Point Distillery

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Portland’s doughnut scene has carved out a formidable reputation. Beyond the global fame of Voodoo Doughnut and its wild creations, a newer guard of artisans like Delicious Donuts, Blue Star, Pip’s Original, and Coco Donuts are pushing the boundaries of what a doughnut can be. They stand alongside beloved institutions such as Annie’s and Heavenly Donuts, which have served generations of Portlanders.

But what about the unsung hero of the doughnut world: the grocery store bakery? For those moments when a craving strikes during a routine trip for milk and eggs, these bakeries offer a convenient, and often surprisingly delicious, solution. The question is, are they any good?

Following Stumptown Savings’ July deli salad taste test, I assembled a panel of expert judges to find out. We established the ground rules: Each of the six major grocery chains had to offer fresh, unpackaged doughnuts for individual sale. We selected two from each store: one classic original glazed to serve as our control, and one “wild card” to showcase the bakery’s creativity.

We agreed on six stores. These are all stores with multiple locations in and around Portland. They all have bakeries, where ideally they’re making these doughnuts fresh. The stores we judged were: 

To ensure a blind tasting, my wife randomly assigned each doughnut a letter and cut them into pieces. We recorded detailed notes on scorecards, evaluating each on a five-point scale across three categories: flavor, presentation, and value. Each doughnut could earn a total of 45 points from the panel.

Our preferences varied. I favor a distinct yeasty tang, Ricardo seeks a chewy texture and an even glaze, and Bill prizes a doughnut whose dough can stand on its own, without relying on toppings. Despite our different palates, our scores largely aligned, revealing one clear and surprising victor.