The Great Portland Grocery Store Doughnut Showdown

In partnership with Branch Point Distillery

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Portland’s doughnut scene has carved out a formidable reputation. Beyond the global fame of Voodoo Doughnut and its wild creations, a newer guard of artisans like Delicious Donuts, Blue Star, Pip’s Original, and Coco Donuts are pushing the boundaries of what a doughnut can be. They stand alongside beloved institutions such as Annie’s and Heavenly Donuts, which have served generations of Portlanders.

But what about the unsung hero of the doughnut world: the grocery store bakery? For those moments when a craving strikes during a routine trip for milk and eggs, these bakeries offer a convenient, and often surprisingly delicious, solution. The question is, are they any good?

Following Stumptown Savings’ July deli salad taste test, I assembled a panel of expert judges to find out. We established the ground rules: Each of the six major grocery chains had to offer fresh, unpackaged doughnuts for individual sale. We selected two from each store: one classic original glazed to serve as our control, and one “wild card” to showcase the bakery’s creativity.

We agreed on six stores. These are all stores with multiple locations in and around Portland. They all have bakeries, where ideally they’re making these doughnuts fresh. The stores we judged were: 

To ensure a blind tasting, my wife randomly assigned each doughnut a letter and cut them into pieces. We recorded detailed notes on scorecards, evaluating each on a five-point scale across three categories: flavor, presentation, and value. Each doughnut could earn a total of 45 points from the panel.

Our preferences varied. I favor a distinct yeasty tang, Ricardo seeks a chewy texture and an even glaze, and Bill prizes a doughnut whose dough can stand on its own, without relying on toppings. Despite our different palates, our scores largely aligned, revealing one clear and surprising victor.

The unanimous winner blew us away. WinCo, an underdog entering the competition, delivered exceptional quality and unbeatable value. Its wild card, a spiced old-fashioned buttermilk-style doughnut, was the champion of the day. With a handsome, even fry and subtle notes of cinnamon and warming spices, it was a master class in texture and flavor.

The glazed doughnut also claimed the top spot in its category. A slightly chewy, yeasty dough with hints of vanilla was finished with a light, even glaze that we all appreciated.

The real shocker was the price. At just 78 cents, these were by far the cheapest doughnuts we tested. “If you told me this came from a fancy bakery in Santa Monica where it cost $6, I’d believe you,” Bill said. “The fact that it only costs 78 cents is a home run.”

(Editor’s note: My wife conducted her own blind taste test afterward, and her results were actually mostly the opposite of our panel’s standings.)

Market of Choice’s bakeries have earned plenty of accolades, and they fared well, but they couldn’t match WinCo’s superior taste and value. Their doughnuts scored high marks for visual appeal, but the flavors were less impressive.

Bill marked down the chocolate-glazed wild card for its over-reliance on sweetness. “The doughnut itself is just a delivery vehicle for the sugar on top,” he said.

Though their doughnuts placed third in each individual category, their consistent performance secured them second place overall.

New Seasons sells doughnuts made by the popular local chain Coco Donuts. Their original glazed was the second-best of the day and my personal favorite, boasting a delightful yeasty flavor and a chewy crumb.

Its wild card, a lavender-raised doughnut, was polarizing. We struggled to identify the unusual flavor in the washed-out purple glaze. At $3 each, these were the most expensive doughnuts in the test, which significantly hurt their value score.

One drawback to grocery store bakery doughnuts is you don’t always know what you’re getting. This is the case with this champion doughnut, as there was no label. Our best guess is its some sort of buttermilk old-fashioned with hints of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. But with high marks for flavor, texture, appearance and value, it was hands down the people’s champion of this taste test. We all agreed we’d happily pay more for these doughnuts.

Clocking in at just 78 cents each, we all were floored at the value of these doughnuts, which was helped even more by the quality you’re getting at that price. The next cheapest doughnuts cost more than 50 cents more and were nowhere near as good. I dare say, WinCo’s doughnuts could hold up with a competition against some doughnut shops!

Who knew WinCo had such great doughnuts? Not every WinCo has a bakery (looking at you, Powell location!), but for those that do, you’re in for a real treat with their doughnuts. As Bill put it, "WinCo. Does it again, man! Everything at WinCo is so cheap, and it's often excellent."

I was personally shocked at how Fred Meyer (Top Pot Donuts) performed in this test, as I’ve generally been a big fan of these doughnuts. But comparing them blindly next to other doughnuts, they just weren’t up to the same quality standards. “I gave it a one on appearance because I just hated the sloppy made [look],” Ricardo said. “I really, I couldn't unsee it.”

Based on both flavor and appearance, this doughnut was seen as the quintessential, stereotypical doughnut when thinking of grocery or convenience store doughnuts. Bill called it the "ideal of the grocery store doughnut.”

Have a favorite grocery doughnut? Email me at [email protected].

Happy saving!
Bryan M. Vance,
Stumptown Savings