We Blind Taste-Tested 9 Portland-Area Store Brand Cheddars To Find the Best

This Thursday, April 9 is Local News Day — a national day celebrating local, independent journalism. Stumptown Savings is Portland's only independent food and grocery newsletter. We'll have something special. Stay tuned. Now onto today’s story.

We live in Tillamook country. The dairy cooperative based on the Oregon Coast has grown into a global behemoth, with its standard yellow cheddar being the gold standard for American cheddar cheese. But even so, there are various reasons someone may opt for a different cheddar when in the grocery store. It could be you’re looking for a cheaper option, an organic one, or you’re just not a fan of Tillamook’s cheddar (yes, those people exist). 

In keeping with our mission to help people shop smarter, Stumptown Savings assembled a panel and put nine Portland-area store-brand cheddar cheeses through a blind taste test to find which is worth your money, and which to skip. 

In an interesting twist: We actually snuck Tillamook’s gold standard into the taste test, and the winning grocery store cheddar fooled two of our judges into thinking it might have been Tillamook. Nine store-brand cheeses entered, only one took the crown of the best store-brand cheddar cheese. 

Ahead of the taste test, the Stumptown Savings audience picked Albertsons/Safeway as the likely winner. Well, all I’ll say on that for now is … they weren’t even close. 

For this test, we assembled nine store brand blocks of cheddar cheeses. A tenth option, the Everyday Essentials brand sold as a store-brand option at stores like Chuck’s Fresh Markets, Basics Market, and Market of Choice, was out of stock at two stores during the week of the test, so in a twist we submitted a block of Tillamook cheddar I had on hand into the taste test — though it wasn’t graded in the final rankings. Here’s what we tested:

The week of the event, I ventured out across the Portland metro area to acquire the cheeses. We focused on medium cheddars, opting for mild if the store’s medium option was out of stock. The afternoon of the test, my wife, Monique (who is also the Stumptown Savings editor!) sliced the cheeses and anonymized them, mixing Tillamook’s medium cheddar randomly into the mix. 

Initially, we only judged taste and texture, with a maximum of 5 points for each category.

After the initial scoring, we revealed the source and price of each cheese, including which one was Tillamook. Then, we graded the nine store-brand cheeses on value. Each cheese could earn up to 15 points per judge, meaning a maximum of 45 points total was possible from the panel.

In the end, one cheese came out on top, and one did so poorly I honestly recommend you never buy it. 

This cheese, one of only two organic options, was an utter failure. It was universally disliked by the panel, though I was the most vehement detractor, awarding it a paltry 1 out of 15 points (0.5 each for taste and texture). Frankly, I wouldn't consume this cheese even if it were free — it was that offensive.

Its flaws were numerous: it had a foul odor reminiscent of a funky parmesan rind, lacked any recognizable cheddar flavor, and — to add insult to injury — it was nearly four times the price per ounce of our winning cheese. Panelist Crystal perfectly captured the sentiment regarding its poor "value": "... 81 cents an ounce is an insane price for something that is this bad."

The only other organic cheese contender earned high marks for its taste, featuring a unique flavor profile and a dry texture that Crystal deemed perfect for a cheese plate. However, its dryness raised concerns about its suitability for cooking with. The $1 per ounce price was also a major drawback for the entire group. "Real bummer!" Crystal commented on the cost, adding, "For the amount of cheese I eat, I can never justify a dollar an ounce."

The cheddar was far from the worst, but it certainly wasn't good. As Crystal put it, "I would never buy this because it's gross." Both Katy and I picked up on an odd metallic flavor, culminating in a flat finish. The aftertaste was strange, almost chemical, and I noted a complete lack of aroma.

Katy ultimately dismissed it, stating, "I'll never buy it. There's other cheaper cheese."

This cheddar stood out for its unusually springy, almost bouncy texture, which Crystal likened to Velveeta. Katy noted, "It was like an almost fake smooth. I don't love cheddars that like have a mouth feel like American cheese."

I gave this cheese the highest score among the three judges, awarding it 11.5 out of 15 points. As a fan of extra sharp cheddar, I appreciated its subtle funkiness. Overall, it's a solid, if unremarkable, cheddar — particularly well-suited for melting into a sauce or slicing to top hot burgers.

Though slightly pricier than its conventional, store-brand competitors, this cheddar was a strong contender due to its reliable medium cheddar flavor. The taste was a highlight, with one taster, Katy, noting, "I liked the back end flavor to it ... I liked how salty and umami flavored it was."

Its texture also scored well; it was judged to be excellent for melting in baked dishes like mac and cheese. However, its slightly soft consistency made it less ideal for eating on its own.

The subsequent cheeses were closely ranked, with minor variations in cost, texture, and taste determining their final position. The Kroger cheddar received praise from Crystal for its "solid cheddary, but not overpowering" flavor. I appreciated the cheese's classic cheddar aroma. However, its flavor was not as exceptional as other contenders, and its significantly higher price compared to our top-ranked cheese ultimately lowered its score.

Coming in at the same price per ounce as the Albertsons and Safeway store-brand, the Whole Foods option surprised us all on its relative value. Its texture was middle of the road, not too soft and not too dry. It had a solid flavor that made it suitable as a snacking cheddar. But it was more expensive than both the top two cheeses, which held it back.

Despite an off-putting initial scent — reminiscent of synthetic Cheeto dust — this cheddar quickly redeemed itself. Once past the sniff test, it offered a uniquely buttery, creamy texture and a solid, satisfying cheddar flavor. As Crystal noted, it has a "great strong smell, perfect cheddar flavor!"

Its smooth, creamy consistency makes it an excellent choice for melting, perhaps into a cheddar sauce for homemade mac and cheese. Overall, it's a superb mild cheddar that delivers a premium feel without the premium price tag.

WinCo Foods, despite the store's previous poor showing in our tortilla chip test, was a surprising success. During the blind tasting, both Crystal and I actually wondered if we were trying Tillamook. Crystal praised it as "classic but approachable," adding, "I want it for mac and cheese.”

With a medium-firm texture, this cheddar is versatile: it works equally well for snacking or baking. I can vouch for its baking prowess, having immediately grated it for baked mac and cheese after the taste test. It offered a nice finish and a respectable amount of "funk" for a medium cheddar.

What truly set this cheese apart was its value. At just $0.21 an ounce, it cost less than one-fifth the price of the priciest cheese we sampled, yet it held its own against Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods for different reasons. For Tillamook fans looking to save on groceries, don't hesitate to try the WinCo Foods cheddar!